REFINANCE: January 2016

Sunday, January 31, 2016

Which Bills Should You Pay First When Money Is Tight?

If you’re short on cash and literally have to pick which bills you should pay first (just in case you can’t pay all of them), then it’s important that you have your priorities in order. Otherwise, you could make things worse for you and your family.

Here are some pointers about which bills to pay first when money is tight.

Necessities

Items like food and medical expenses should always take top priority. You need to stay healthy and alive, after all.

Housing

You need a place to live, and your car isn’t an acceptable place to live. Once you’ve taken steps to ensure that food is on the table and healthcare related costs are handled, pay your mortgage or rent. You’re much better off defaulting on credit card debt than defaulting on your mortgage.

Utilities

You might be able to sweat in the summer, but you really need to stay warm in the winter. To that end, make sure that you pay your utility bills.

Also, you’re going to need to keep the food that you purchased fresh and your children will need lights so that they can do their homework. That’s why you’ll need electricity.

It’s worth mentioning here, though, that you should also search for ways to lower your utility bills. That might help you make ends meet.

Car Loan

If you bought your car with an auto loan, then the payment for that loan is the next priority.That’s because you’re probably going to need the car to get to and from work. Obviously, if the car is repossessed and you can’t get to work, you’re going to lose your job and make your financial situation much worse.

Child Support

Child support is a legal as well as a financial issue, so this is a touchy subject. Plus, you care about your own child, right? Make this one your next priority.

Income Taxes

Beware the power of the IRS. That bureaucracy has the power to force you to pay your taxes. Once you’ve got your other responsibilities handled, pay your taxes or you’ll owe more with penalties and interest.

Collateralized Loan

You may have taken a loan that was secured with some household products (note: not your actual house, but furniture or electronic equipment). If that’s the case, then pay that off next if you still have money left over. Otherwise, forfeit the collateral.

Unsecured Debt

Unsecured debt includes credit card debt and personal loans you’ve received from a financial institution. It’s lower on the priority list because, in this case, your creditors can’t “repossess” anything. They can (and will), however, report your delinquent payment to credit bureaus. They can also send you nastygram letters and call you to harass you into paying your bill. They can also turn the whole thing over to a collection agency, but they really can’t take your property away from you.

Keep in mind, though, that if you run afoul of your creditors, you’re going to have trouble getting a loan in the future. That’s because your credit score will drop like a rock.

It’s not easy to pick and choose which bills to pay. However, once you make the tough choices and get back on your feet, it’s important to put some money away for future emergencies. Be sure to create a savings account or buy treasury bills so that you’ll have an emergency fund on hand the next time something like this happens.

Inexpensive Ways to Improve Your Home Security

If you’re looking for ways to keep your home safe, you should know that you don’t have to break the bank to do so. You can protect your property and family without putting too much of a dent in your checking account.

Here are some inexpensive ways to improve your home security.

Window Shades

One of the best ways to keep your property secure is to not advertise that you’re away. To do that, simply install window shades on the windows and keep them down. That way, thieves who are scouting around your neighborhood for easy targets will have absolutely no idea if you’re home or not. Fortunately, you don’t need a home refinance to buy shades.

Upgrade Your Locks

If your home was built a long time ago or you’ve owned it for more than a decade, it’s likely that modern day locks are far superior to what you have installed in your doors right now. Even better: you can often find those improved locks at your local home improvement store. Again, they don’t cost a fortune. You can buy new locks with one of your best secured credit cards.

Use Light Timers

When you’re out of town and your shades are drawn, particularly diligent thieves might notice that nobody’s home because the lights aren’t being turned on and off on a regular basis. That’s why you should get an inexpensive light timer and use it to automatically turn your lights on and off every now and then.

Motion Sensors

There’s not much that’s going to scare off the bad guys more than a light that suddenly comes on as they’re approaching the house. They’ll get spooked because they think that someone inside is checking on why people are moving through the yard after dark. The reality is that the light comes on automatically, whether you are home or not, because you’ve installed a motion sensor.

Neighborhood Watch

Band together with people in your neighborhood to form a neighborhood watch. You’ll all take turns walking around the neighborhood on different nights, looking for anything suspicious. Of course, this option will require an investment of your time as opposed to your money, but it’s usually only a few hours each month.

Close That Garage Door

You don’t want to tempt thieves to make you a target by “advertising” what’s in your garage. For that reason, keep your garage door closed except when you’re entering and exiting the garage. Also, be sure to use mechanical locks when you’re out of town to keep thieves from hacking your automatic garage door opener and getting inside your home that way.

Don’t Tell People You’re Away

If you change your voicemail to let people know when you’re out of town, change that habit immediately. If the wrong person calls your number and finds out you’re not in town, he or she might make your house a target for a burglary.

You don’t have to spend a small fortune to keep your house secure. With just a small investment and a few common-sense tricks, you can secure your property on the cheap.

Is Is Worth It to Refinance Your Home?

If you’re contemplating whether or not to refinance your home, you’re going to need to do some math. If you stand to save money with a refinance, then you should probably pull the trigger.

Before you get to the point where you can answer that question, though, you’ll have to evaluate the cost of the entire process.

What About PMI Payments?

Private mortgage insurance (PMI) is an expense you have to pay in the event that you default on your mortgage. When you buy PMI, the insurance company will pay the mortgage company or bank if you don’t pay back the loan.

If your credit history has improved significantly and you’ve built equity into the house since you originally purchased your home, you probably won’t need to pay as much PMI after you refinance. Keep in mind, though, that the rules change if you have a second mortgage for a construction loan or home improvement loan.

If you originally purchased your house years ago with just 5% down, your PMI costs are probably going to be significantly higher than they are when you go through a refinance. In other words, you could save money on PMI with a refinance. So, from that standpoint, a refinance might make sense.

In fact, if you refinance with 20% equity in the property, you likely won’t be required to pay any PMI at all. However, if you’re refinancing with less than 10% equity, then PMI will cover 30% of the loss. If your equity is closer to 20%, PMI will probably cover 12%.

A Second Mortgage

If you’re looking to get cash out of your house, you can always avoid PMI with a second mortgage or home equity loan. The good news is that interest on both of those options is tax deductible. You may have to pay a higher interest rate, though, because of lender-paid mortgage insurance. You’ll pay that for the life of the loan, no matter how much equity you own in the property.

So What’s the Answer?

After evaluating the costs, it’s time to ask: should you refinance? If you stand to save a significant amount of money every month after you refinance, with the reduction in PMI and a lower interest rate, then yes, you should probably move forward. On the other hand, if you’ll only save a little bit of money, or none at all, then it’s best stick with the mortgage you have now.

If you’ve put on your prognosticator’s hat and are predicting that interest rates will rise, you might think that you should refinance immediately. Keep in mind, though, that nobody can predict where interest rates will go over the long term. However, if you’ve absolutely convinced yourself that now is the “bottom” for interest rates and you can reduce your rate by several basis points or more, then go ahead and refinance.

If you’re looking to refinance just so you can get cash out, then the main consideration is a competitive interest rate. In that case, you can either refinance your house to get cash out, get a second mortgage, or a home equity loan. In all cases, though, you’ll want an interest rate that’s affordable.

How to Start and Build Your Emergency Fund Now

Death and taxes aren’t the only two certainties in life. You’ll also have to face extraordinary expenses once in a while, such as hefty home repairs, a new car, or a medical expense. When those major expenses arrive, it’s best to have an emergency fund on hand.

If you don’t have an emergency fund, then now is the time to start building one. Here are a few steps to help you do just that.

Start Small

As with so many other things in life, it’s best to start small. The longest journey begins with one step.

Instead of telling yourself that you need $5,000 in the bank, aim far lower. Start by saving just $250 or $500. Then, build your cash reserves up from there.

If you aim for a lower goal, you’re more likely to reach it. On the other hand, if you try to bite off more than you can chew by stashing away a huge chunk of cash you can’t afford to take out of your budget, you might get frustrated and quit. As a result, you may have to search for emergency loans or go into considerable debt to pay for an unexpectedly large expense.

Lower Your Credit Card Interest Rate

One of the easiest ways to save cash on a monthly basis is to get your credit card interest rate lowered.  This way you can put the money that would have gone to your credit card interest payments straight into your emergency fund instead. If you’ve got a multi-thousand dollar balance on one or more cards and you’re getting socked with double-digit interest rates, then you’re spending a significant amount of your hard-earned money in interest every month.

Call your credit card company’s customer service department and ask to have your rate lowered. If you’ve got great credit (i.e., you’ve been paying your bills on time), then the company might work with you. If the company is unwilling to lower the rate, keep an eye out for offers in the mail about balance transfers. Just be sure to read the fine print on those offers to make sure that a low interest rate on a balance transfer doesn’t turn into a high interest rate six months or a year later.  This is a great option to save money without having to cut back on any of your other regular expenses.

Use Your Tax Refund

Tax season is upon us. If you’re expecting a big, fat refund from Uncle Sam, then guess what? You can reinvest your tax refund into your emergency fund. That’s a great way to get your emergency fund started.

Sure, that means you won’t be able to use your tax refund to get a 60-inch television set for your family room. However, that’s the kind of sacrifice you’re going to need to make if you want a healthy emergency fund.

It’s great that you want to start an emergency fund. Although it seems like a daunting task to many cash-strapped households, with a little bit of financial discipline, you can be well on your way to saving for whatever unusual and expensive surprises life throws your way.

Saturday, January 30, 2016

What Is the Range for Credit Scores?

What is a good credit score?

Fair Isaac Corp. produces the most commonly used credit scoring algorithm in the United States. FICO scores range from 300 to 850, and the higher the score, the better.

Each lender sets its own standards for what constitutes a “good” FICO score. But, in general, FICO scores fall along the following lines:

  • 300-629: Bad credit
  • 630-689: Fair credit
  • 690-719: Good credit
  • 720 and up: Excellent credit

The average FICO score was 695, according to the latest data as of April 2015.

But there are several commonly used credit scores, not just FICO. The increasingly popular VantageScore also employs a 300-850 scoring range, as do most other credit scores. “Good” or “excellent” scores depend on what an individual lender decides, but in general 720 and up is considered excellent.

Even if your score is in the low 500s you may still be able to get credit, but it will come with very high interest rates or with specific conditions, such as depositing money to get a secured credit card. You may have to pay more for car insurance or put down deposits on utilities.

At the other end of the scale, borrowers with scores above 750 or so have many options, including the ability to qualify for 0% financing on cars or a 0% credit card.

That’s why you want good credit. Here’s how to get there:

7 steps toward a better credit score

Find the starting point

The first thing to do is to see where you stand. Some credit cards offer free scores, and you may also be able to get a free score online. The important thing is to use the same score every time, as each weighs your credit history a little differently. (Doing otherwise is like trying to monitor your weight on different scales.)

So, pick a score and stick with it to monitor your progress. Advancements you make measured by one score will be reflected in the others.

And be aware that, like weight, scores fluctuate. Your score is a snapshot that can vary every time you check it.

Check your credit reports for errors

Next, check your credit reports — the information used to calculate your scores. You are entitled to one every 12 months for free from each of the three major credit reporting agencies, Equifax, Experian and TransUnion. You can access your reports at AnnualCreditReport.com.

Check them for errors, making sure your name, address and Social Security number are correct and that you recognize the accounts listed. (Here’s a guide on how to read credit reports.) If you believe there is an error, dispute it.

Because credit scores are derived from information in your credit reports, an error could potentially lower your score — and correcting one might improve it.

Pay every bill on time

Your payment history accounts for about a third of your credit score.

A late payment can stay on your credit report for seven years. The more recent the late payment is, the more it hurts. The later the payment, the worse the damage. Sixty days late is worse than 30.

If you are a few days late, your creditor is unlikely to report the account in arrears. If it’s more than 30 days, though, expect a ding. A single, recent late payment can deal a heavy blow to a good credit score, as much as 100 points if your credit had been considered excellent until then.

On the other hand, if you begin now to establish a history of on-time payments, your older late payments won’t matter as much. Nothing will improve your credit score faster than paying your debts.

Use credit sparingly

Your credit utilization also accounts for about a third of your score.

The more of your available credit that you use, the less likely you are to be able to repay your debts. In general, you need to use 30% or less to get the best credit scores.

Credit algorithms look at your credit utilization on both your individual cards and as a total against all your cards. That is, if you have two cards, one that is charged up to its limit and the other with zero balance, you would be penalized even if your total credit use is below 30%.

Keep credit utilization in mind when you decide which balance to attack first.

Another way to reduce credit utilization is to get a higher credit limit. If your financial situation or credit has changed for the better since you applied for the card, it might be worth calling your issuer to ask for a higher limit.

Apply for new credit only when you need it

New credit accounts for about 10% of your credit scores; applying for a lot of credit in a short time could hurt your score, as it represents increased risk that lenders won’t get repaid.

Inquiries fall in this category.

A “hard” credit inquiry involves an actual application for credit and can cause a small, temporary drop in your score. You are not penalized for shopping around for a mortgage or a car loan over the course of a few days or weeks; those inquiries are typically grouped together as a single hard credit pull.

A single credit card application may ding your scores, but this is often offset by having a higher credit limit that improves your credit utilization ratio.

A “soft” credit check, on the other hand, isn’t an application for credit and doesn’t affect credit scores. A soft pull is either informational, as when you check your own credit, or promotional, as when a credit card company makes you a preapproved offer or a personal loan provider quotes you a rate.

The length of your credit history matters

The age of your credit accounts for about 15% of your score. If you’re new to credit, the length of your credit history could hurt your score.

You might be able to counter it by becoming an authorized user on an older credit card, assuming the primary user pays on time and keeps balances low. Not all issuers report authorized users, so make sure the issuer does.

If you have established credit and have been tempted to cancel an older card, you may want to reconsider, unless there is a compelling reason — like a fee — to ditch it. (Even then, the issuer may be able to switch you to a different card and keep the account age.)

Have the right kinds of credit

There are several types of credit accounts, and consumers with high credit scores tend to have more than one. Your credit mix accounts for about 10% of your scores. Each account on your report will be noted as Revolving, Installment or Open.

Revolving accounts such as credit cards set a limit on how much you can spend, and you can repay either the minimum, the whole balance or anything in between. You can carry a balance until the day you die.

An installment loan applies fixed monthly payments against a specified payoff date. Paying off an installment loan demonstrates responsibility over time; that’s why a current mortgage is typically part of an excellent credit score.

An open account involves accounts where the entire amount is due at the end of the billing period. Typically these involve services such as cell phones and utilities, but also can include some gas station cards and credit cards.

The designation of each credit type can affect your score. For example, revolving credit card debt of more than 30% of your available limit can hurt your score. A debt consolidation loan could move that credit card debt over to the installment column, improving the credit utilization ratio on your revolving accounts.

Making it count

It’s smart to focus your efforts where they have the most impact. Keep in mind that credit applications, the kind of credit you have, and how long you have had credit — combined — make up only about a third of your score.

Although every little bit helps, it’s all but impossible to improve your score if you don’t pay on time.

Bev O’Shea is a staff writer at NerdWallet, a personal finance website. Email: boshea@nerdwallet.com. Twitter: @BeverlyOShea.


Image via iStock.

Financial Advice You Should Always Ignore

Opinions vary on almost every subject and finance is no exception. That’s why it’s important to ensure that you follow only the best advice when it comes to managing your money. Otherwise, you could end up in worse financial shape.

Here are a few pieces of financial advice you should always ignore.

Credit Cards Are Bad

You’ve almost certainly heard the claim, offered by many personal finance gurus, that credit cards are completely evil and should be avoided at all costs. That’s simply not the case.

While it’s certainly true that many people have ended up in a great deal of financial trouble because of credit card abuse, it’s also the case that credit cards have benefits to people who use them responsibly.

First, if you have a low-interest credit card, you can use it when you find yourself in a financial emergency. It should be noted, though, that you should still have an emergency fund on hand for those types of expenses. It’s best to only use a credit card as a last resort.

Also, having a credit card can help your credit score. That’s good because if you ever need to borrow money for a mortgage or an auto loan, you could get a lower rate if your score is high. That will, in the long run, save you a significant amount of money.

You Must Have Life Insurance

If you’re in your 20s, single, and have no dependents, how much life insurance do you need? None.

Life insurance is meant to provide your dependents with some financial peace of mind in the event that you pass away earlier than expected. If you’re flying solo at this point in your life, you really don’t need any life insurance.

The caveat here is if you’re the charitable sort and you’d like to name a charity as your beneficiary, then you can take out a life insurance policy for that reason. Consult with the insurance company before you do that, though, just to make sure it’s allowed.

10 Percent Is the Right Amount for Retirement

You might think that all you need to contribute towards your retirement is just 10 percent of your income. However, if you got off to a late start in making retirement contributions, you might need to contribute a lot more than that.

Think of 10 percent as a good starting point, but you should also hire a financial advisor to give you an idea about how much from each paycheck you need to put away to reach your financial goals by age 65. You might be surprised at the figure.

A House Is a Great Investment

Although owning your own home is a great way to build wealth, you really shouldn’t think about a house as an investment. Your home is the place where you hang your hat, escape from the problems of the world, and connect with your family.

If you’re not clear on sound financial advice, consider browsing through the Capital One financial plans so you can get an idea about what’s best for your budget. Also, make sure you evaluate the personal finance advice you receive from self-described experts.

How Much Can You Afford to Spend in Retirement?

Congratulations on your retirement! Although you don’t have to worry about punching a clock and reporting to a boss any more, you still have to make sure that you preserve as much of your wealth while offering yourself a healthy income.

Here are a few tips about how much you can afford to spend in retirement.

Use the 60%-90% Rule

Chances are pretty good that, when you used a retirement savings calculator a long time ago to calculate how much you’ll need for your golden years, you accounted for the cost of inflation. That’s good, because inflation is almost certainly going to be a part of your retirement years.

If you’ve factored in inflation, then a good rule of thumb is to live off of 60% to 90% of your after-tax income when you retire. That will give you some cushion in the event that inflation rises a little more than you expected, but should also provide you with a comfortable income during your retirement.

Keep in mind, though, that this is only a rule of thumb. If you’ve retired to an area with a high cost of living, you might need to spend much more than the 60% minimum and may even need to spend more than the 90% maximum. If you live an area with a very low cost of living, you might get away with living off of half of your after-tax income

Use the 4% Rule

The 4% Rule is one of the easiest rules to follow when it comes to determining how much you can withdraw from your retirement portfolio every year.

During your first year of retirement, withdraw 4% of the money that you’ve saved. That’s effectively your annual income. Then, during each successive year, use that amount as a baseline and adjust it for inflation and other rising expenses.

Keep in mind that this rule gives you about 30 years of income. When you decided to build your retirement portfolio, you plugged in a life expectancy age. If you think you’re going to live 30 years beyond retirement, then you’ll have to withdraw less every year or look at buying longevity insurance.

Some Expenses Will Increase

You might think that all of your expenses will decrease when you retire. However, that’s not always the case.

If you were accustomed to setting your thermostat to a non-room temperature number while you and your spouse were at work, for example, then your heating and air conditioning costs might go up now that you’re both home all day, everyday.

Also, you might do a lot more travelling. If you’ve got adult children and grandchildren that you’d like to see from time to time, and they don’t live near you, you’ll have to take some flights or road trips that cost money. Be sure to account for those types of expenses as you enter retirement.

You’ve worked hard to save for retirement. Now, it’s time to enjoy your sunset years and live a little. Just be sure that you preserve enough of your wealth to last throughout your entire life.

How to Determine the Right Time to Ask for a Raise

If you’re hoping to talk your boss into giving you a raise, be advised that there’s not only a proper way to ask for it, but there’s also a proper time. If you think that you’ve got the “what to say” part down pat, now it’s time to make sure that you ask at the right moment.

Here’s how to determine the right time to ask for a raise.

Your Company Is Doing Well Financially

If you know for a fact that your company has been breaking financial records quarter after quarter, then it might be a good time to ask for a raise. That’s because the business is probably flush with cash and management wants to retain employees to maintain the same business model that’s already worked so well. In other words, business leaders don’t want you to be unhappy, resign from the company, or go look for jobs for stay at home moms.

Your Boss Is in a Good Mood

Sometimes, the most obvious answer is the right one. Why not ask for a raise when your boss is in a good mood?

If you’re at work and you notice that your boss is unusually grumpy and issuing a variety of complaints, it might be best to hold in your request for a raise until later. On the other hand, if your boss seems to be smiling a lot and in good spirits, it’s probably a great time to ask for an increase.

Other People Are Getting Raises

Although it’s considered unprofessional to discuss raises or compensation with peers, it’s often the case that word gets out. Maybe you’ve heard through the grapevine that some people in your department or even near your cubicle have received raises and you haven’t yet.

That might tempt you to be bitter. Instead of getting frustrated and taking pains to write the best cover letter in your search for a new job where you’ll be treated with more respect, why not just ask your boss for a raise too?

Your Performance Review Is Due

This is an easy one. When it’s time for your annual performance review, you should approach your manager with an attitude that you’re expecting a raise out of the meeting. In fact, many performance reviews conclude with some type of an increase in salary. Usually, the increase is a combination of a cost of living adjustment and a merit increase.

That’s why it’s a good idea to brag about your accomplishments to your boss during your annual review. Toot your own horn and drop reminders about everything that you’ve accomplished during the past year. If you’ve gone above and beyond the call of duty on more than one occasion, be sure to mention that as well. You’re basically advertising why you deserve a raise in that meeting.

If you’ve worked hard at your place of business for more than a year and haven’t received an increase in pay, then you’re probably due for one. Just be sure that you approach your boss with tact and professionalism when you ask for more money.

Friday, January 29, 2016

The Hows and Whys of Life Insurance for Children

The question of whether to buy life insurance for children sparks strong debate about the value of such policies.

Life insurance for children is often marketed to parents or grandparents as a way to save money for kids and to “protect their insurability,” meaning their chance to buy more life insurance later no matter their health. For these reasons, some life insurance agents say purchasing life insurance on a child can be a smart financial move, but many financial advisors caution against it.

“I struggle with thinking of reasons why it would make sense,” says Joseph Alfonso, a financial advisor in the San Francisco and Portland, Oregon, areas.

Most insurance agents and advisors can agree, though, on one point: Other, more critical financial matters should come first before you even think about buying a life insurance policy on a child. Those include building an adequate emergency savings fund, making sure you and the child’s other parent have enough life insurance and disability insurance, building savings for the child’s college tuition, and getting your own retirement savings on track.

[Life insurance quotes are available through NerdWallet’s Life Insurance Comparison Tool.]

How it works

There are a couple of ways to buy life insurance on a minor child:

  • You can buy some coverage on your child’s life if you purchase a term life insurance policy covering yourself or your spouse. You do this by buying a rider — an extra policy feature at added cost — that extends a small amount, such as $20,000, in life insurance to other family members, including children. Term life insurance provides coverage for a certain period, such as 10, 20 or 30 years, and pays a death benefit to the beneficiary if the insured person dies during the term. This is the only way to buy term life insurance on a child; there aren’t standalone term life insurance policies for minors.
  • Or you can buy a permanent life insurance policy, such as whole life, covering your child. These are generally for small face amounts, such as $50,000 or less. Permanent life insurance provides coverage for someone’s entire life and includes a savings account that gradually builds value over time. As a result, the premiums are much more expensive than term life.

The Gerber Life Insurance Co., which specializes in selling whole life policies for children, is the best-known name in the industry for juvenile life insurance. The company, an offshoot of the baby food maker, uses the famous face of the Gerber baby to market its policies directly to consumers.

But you can buy a permanent life insurance policy covering a child from just about any of the biggest life insurance companies. A parent or grandparent can make a child the policy owner once the child reaches adulthood.

About 20% of parents and grandparents say they have purchased coverage on kids, according to a survey of 2,000 adults by industry groups Life Happens and LIMRA.

Reasons to buy — or not

Here are the reasons some insurance agents give for buying life insurance for children, with the arguments for and against.

It provides money for funeral expenses and other costs

For: In the tragic event of a child’s death, a life insurance payout could pay for funeral expenses, family counseling and medical bills and provide money for the family to get by if the parents need to take leave from work.

Against: Statistically, the odds of a child dying are very slim. A smarter financial move than buying life insurance is to stash money into an emergency fund, which could be tapped for any type of crisis, says Keith Amburgey, CEO of Rutherford Asset Planning in Tampa, Florida.

It locks in a child’s ability to qualify for more life insurance later

For: A child who develops a medical problem early in life might have trouble qualifying for coverage later. By purchasing coverage now, you guarantee the child has some coverage and can buy more as an adult, regardless of health. This is a big reason people purchase life insurance on their children, says Marvin Feldman, CEO of Life Happens, a consumer education group funded by the life insurance industry. Feldman says he bought life insurance policies for his children and grandchildren.

Against: Amburgey says it’s “an expensive proposition for a remote risk. The vast majority of 20- and 30-somethings have no problem getting insurance.” In addition, Alfonso says, the amount that can be purchased later because of the “guaranteed insurability” is limited to a multiple of the original policy amount. In many cases, that total is too small to provide adequate coverage later in life anyway.

It provides a savings vehicle the child can tap later

For: The savings component of a permanent life insurance policy, called cash value, grows tax-deferred. The policy owner can borrow against the cash value or surrender the policy for the money, minus a possible surrender fee. The cash could be used for anything, including college expenses or the down payment on a home. A whole life insurance policy guarantees a certain percentage return on the cash value and compares well with other conservative savings vehicles like CDs, Feldman says. “It isn’t designed to be a primary savings and investment tool. It’s one of the tools for parents and grandparents to consider.”

Against: The fees associated with life insurance policies usually eat away at the rate of return,” says Carrie Houchins-Witt, a financial advisor in Coralville, Iowa. She encourages her clients to think about how much life insurance fees would grow over time if invested elsewhere, then compare that to the cash value of a policy over the same term. “There are a multitude of opportunities to make a better return than through investing in life insurance,” she says.

Before you buy

Look at your entire financial picture to make sure you’re saving enough and covering bigger risks. Get advice from a fee-only financial advisor — that’s one who doesn’t make commissions on life insurance or other products — before you buy coverage on a child. The main purpose of life insurance is to replace income and/or cover debts in the event of a provider’s death.

The important question to ask is: Do you and your spouse have enough life insurance? NerdWallet’s life insurance comparison tool can help you find the right coverage amount and compare prices.

Barbara Marquand is a staff writer at NerdWallet, a personal finance website. Email: bmarquand@nerdwallet.com. Twitter: @barbaramarquand.

This article was written by NerdWallet and was originally published by Forbes.


Image via iStock.

6 Questions to Ask for Lower Mortgage Rates

Buying a home is a huge financial commitment, and finding the right mortgage can be a confusing process — especially for first-time homebuyers. Comparison shopping is the key to getting the best deal, and you’ll want to ask yourself, “How much house can I afford?” before getting too far into the process.

Here are six important questions to consider when deciding which mortgage is right for you:

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1. Should I get a fixed- or adjustable-rate mortgage?

Mortgages generally come in two forms: fixed or adjustable rate. Fixed-rate mortgages lock you into a consistent interest rate that you’ll pay over the life of the loan. The part of your mortgage payment that goes toward principal plus interest remains constant throughout the loan term, though insurance, property taxes and other costs may fluctuate.

The interest rate on an adjustable-rate mortgage fluctuates over the life of the loan. An ARM usually begins with an introductory period of 10, seven, five or even one year, during which your interest rate holds steady. After that, your rate changes based on an interest rate index chosen by the bank.

ARMs look good to a lot of homebuyers because they usually offer lower introductory rates. But remember, your rate could go up after your introductory period, so be sure you’re comfortable with the chance your monthly mortgage payment could rise substantially in the future. Using the terms of the loan, you can calculate what your payment might look like in different rate scenarios.

2. Should I pay for points?

A point is an upfront fee — 1% of the total mortgage amount — paid to lower the ongoing interest rate by a fixed amount, usually 0.125%. For example, if you take out a $200,000 loan at 4.25% interest, you might be able to pay a $2,000 fee to reduce the rate to 4.125%.

Paying for points makes sense if you plan to keep the loan for a long time, but since the average homeowner stays in his or her house for about nine years, the upfront costs often outweigh interest rate savings over time.

Alternatively, there are negative points. It’s the opposite of paying points: A lender reduces its fees in exchange for a higher ongoing interest rate. It’s tempting to reduce your upfront fees, but the additional interest you pay over the life of the loan can be significant. Carefully consider your short-term savings and your long-term costs before taking negative points.

3. How much should I expect to pay in closing costs?

Closing costs usually amount to about 3% of the purchase price of your home and are paid at the time you close, or finalize, the purchase of a house. Closing costs are made up of a variety of fees charged by lenders, including underwriting and processing charges, title insurance fees and appraisal costs, among others. You’re allowed to shop around for lower fees in some cases, and the Loan Estimate form will tell you which ones those are. Shopping for the right lender is a good way to save money on a mortgage and associated fees.

4. Do I qualify for any special programs?

Before you settle on a mortgage, find out if you’re eligible for any special programs that make home-buying less costly. For example:

  • VA loans: If you or your spouse are active military or veterans, you might qualify for a VA loan. Such loans allow low (or no) down payments and offer protections if you fall behind on your mortgage.
  • FHA loans: Like VA loans, FHA loans allow low down payments, but they’re open to most U.S. residents. They’re popular with first-time homebuyers, because they require as little as 3.5% down and are more forgiving of low credit scores than traditional lenders.
  • USDA loans: If you live in a rural area, the USDA might give you a low- or no-down-payment mortgage and help cover closing costs. Like VA loans, USDA loans can also offer help if you fall behind on your payments.
  • First-time homebuyer programs: If this is your first go-round in the homeownership process, check out the HUD website for helpful information and a list of homebuyer assistance programs in your state.

5. How much can and should I put down?

Generally speaking, a lower down payment leads to a higher interest rate and paying more money overall. If you can, pay 20% of your home’s purchase price in your down payment. However, if you don’t have that kind of cash, don’t worry. Many lenders will accept down payments as low as 5% of your home’s purchase price.

Be aware: Low-down-payment loans often require private mortgage insurance, which adds to your overall cost, and you’ll probably pay a higher interest rate. Put down as much as you can while maintaining enough of a financial cushion to weather potential emergencies.

6. What else should I be on the lookout for?

Remember these last tips as you’re buying a home:

  1. Use your Loan Estimate to compare costs. Every lender should provide a statement of your potential loan’s terms and costs before you commit. This will help you make an apples-to-apples comparison between loan offers.
  2. Comparison shop with as many banks, credit unions and online lenders as possible, and ask for referrals from your real estate agent and friends, to get a complete picture of your options. Prioritize credit unions in your search. Credit unions are not-for-profit lending institutions that often have lower rates and fees than for-profit banks. 
  3. Confine your search for a mortgage to a 14-day window. If you apply for mortgages beyond a two-week time period, the credit inquiries could temporarily lower your credit score.

Taking on a mortgage is an important decision that has huge implications for your financial future. Ask smart questions and explore all of your options to save on costs and find the right loan.

More from NerdWallet:

Deborah Kearns is a staff writer at NerdWallet, a personal finance website. Email: dkearns@nerdwallet.com. Twitter:@debbie_kearns.

Dyson V6 Motorhead vs. Electrolux Ergorapido Ion

If you value convenience and ease of use, you’ve likely already decided that a cordless stick vacuum is the right choice for you — they’re slim, lightweight, easy to store and quick to charge. But picking the type of cleaner you desire is only half the battle.

To help you purchase the perfect model, we’re comparing two popular choices: the Dyson V6 Motorhead and the Electrolux Ergorapido Ion. Which stick vacuum will remain standing? Let’s find out.

The vacuums: At a glance

What we found: The Dyson V6 Motorhead is $150 more expensive than the Electrolux Ergorapido Ion, but the Electrolux has a 10-minute longer battery life.

What you’ll learn: For users who put versatility first, the convertible Dyson V6 Motorhead is the way to go. But for affordability and a longer battery life, go for the Electrolux Ergorapido Ion.

 Dyson V6 MotorheadElectrolux Ergorapido Ion (EL1030A)
Price$399.99 from Dyson$249.99 retail price
TypeStickStick
Cord lengthCordlessCordless
Weight5.0 pounds5.3 pounds
BaglessYesYes
Converts to handheld cleaningYesNo
Run time20 minutes30 minutes
Crevice toolYesYes
Buy on Amazon
Buy V6 Motorhead
Buy Electrolux Ergorapido

The vacuums: Up close and personal

Surfaces

First, consider where you’ll be using your new vacuum.

The bright red Electrolux Ergorapido Ion is designed to deliver consistent power across all rooms in your home. The device has a motorized brushroll that’s specifically intended to remove dust and dirt from bare floors.

The pink and purple Dyson V6 Motorhead can tackle dirt and messes in areas of all size, from the house to the car. The stick has a direct-drive cleaner head that’s designed to clean deep into carpet. Dyson says the model has 75% more brush bar power than the standard V6 model.

What other stick vacuum cleaners are on the market? Consult our roundup of the best stick vacuums, based on 7,882 analyzed reviews.

Usage

How can you use each of these sticks? Both are cordless and bagless models that weigh approximately 5 pounds.

The Electrolux Ergorapido Ion features a washable filter (so you won’t have to replace it as often), a one-touch release dust cup for simple cleaning, LED headlights for illuminating your cleaning path, and a flexible charging stand.

The sleek Dyson V6 Motorhead can convert into a handheld device for up-close cleaning and spot jobs. The vacuum also features a docking station that both charges the device and stores its attachments. Additional ease-of-use components include push-button hygienic dirt bin emptying, lifetime washable filters and a balanced design that makes it possible to lift the vacuum to clean the ceiling.

Battery life

Both of these cordless vacuums are battery-operated, so there’s no power cord or plug to deal with.

The V6 Motorhead provides a 20-minute run time and takes 3 1/2 hours to charge. Users can also push a max power mode button to initiate six minutes of increased suction power.

The Ergorapido Ion has a leg up on battery life, as it provides users with 30 minutes of run time — 10 minutes more than the Dyson. It has a 4-hour charging time.

Accessories

Both vacuums come with a few extras.

Open up the Dyson V6 Motorhead box and you’ll find the vacuum itself, the docking station, a combination accessory tool and a crevice tool.

The Electrolux Ergorapido Ion comes with a crevice tool and dusting brush for cleaning hard-to-reach areas. And you’ll never lose them, as the accessories can be stored in the vacuum’s handle.

Price

Last but not least, take price into consideration before you buy.

The Dyson V6 Motorhead costs $399.99 from Dyson. The Electrolux Ergorapido Ion has a regular retail price of $249.99. The vacuum can’t be purchased directly from Electrolux’s website, but it’s sold by a number of third-party sellers.

If you’re looking for a deal, both vacuums can be purchased from Amazon, where you may be able to snag a discount.

Wipe away the confusion

So which stick should earn a place in your home?

If you need an all-in-one vacuum that can tackle spacious areas in your home and function as a handheld as well, the Dyson V6 Motorhead is hard to beat. But with many of the same features as the V6 Motorhead — and costing $150 less — the Electrolux Ergorapido Ion could be a perfect fit for you.

Compare other popular vacuums here:

For more vacuum buying advice, check out:

Courtney Jespersen is a staff writer at NerdWallet, a personal finance website. Email: courtney@nerdwallet.com. Twitter: @courtneynerd.

How to Start a Retirement Plan in Your 30s

If you’re in your 30s, it’s definitely not too late to start saving for retirement. Sure, it would have been better if you had started in your 20s, but nobody’s perfect. You can begin putting cash away now and build up a healthy nest egg for later on in life.

Here’s how to start a retirement plan in your 30s.

Set Your Expectations

It’s important to know that you’re probably going to spend at least 20 years in retirement. That means you’ll have to ensure that your retirement portfolio can support you for at least that long.

Once you understand that, then you need to map out your retirement goals. How “well” do you want to live in retirement? Obviously, the better you want to live, the more you’ll need to contribute to your 401k or 403b retirement plan.

Once you’ve established your goals and determined what you’ll need, it’s time to start the formal retirement planning process. It’s going to require some level of financial discipline to put money away for your golden years with every paycheck. However, if you stick to it, you’ll likely be rewarded handsomely when you reach age 65.

Don’t Forget About Compounding Interest

If you’re not familiar with the concept of compounding interest, you should know that it’s a marvelous financial phenomenon that works to your advantage.

If you put $1,000 into a savings account, you’ll earn interest on that $1,000. That interest will be deposited directly into your savings account as well. Now, if you leave that interest there, then you’ll start earning interest on the interest, plus the interest on the initial $1,000 that you left in the account. That process continues as long as you don’t touch the money in the account and it’s a fantastic way to build wealth as your money literally works for you as opposed to you having to work for your money.

Don’t Neglect Employer Contributions

Your employer might offer you free money. Free money is good.

Usually, your employer will offer you free money in the form of matching contributions on your 401k deposits, up to a certain percentage. For example, if you contribute 10% of your pre-tax income to your 401k, your employer might match up to 5% of that contribution. That means you’re effectively contributing 15% of your income to your 401k, but you only have to pay 10% of that figure. So you’re getting free money.

Set Up an Emergency Fund

Even though this article is about retirement, it’s important that you set up an emergency fund so that you’re prepared for extraordinary expenses that pop up every now and then. You would hate to have to raid your retirement savings in case a big-ticket maintenance issue for your home or a medical emergency pops up and requires a significant out-of-pocket contribution. It’s best to plan for retirement while still setting up an emergency fund.

Planning for retirement in your 30s might seem fairly complicated. However, with just a little bit of input from a good retirement calculator and a little knowledge about finance, you can be well on your way to establishing financial security for your sunset years.

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Fitbit Surge vs. Microsoft Band 2: Two Fitness Bands Compete for a Place on Your Wrist

Fitness trackers are as much about style as they are about function. But stand in the store for any length of time, and all of these bands and watches start to look the same.

So how do you know which one is a match for your workout routine (and your fashion sense)? Let’s compare two leading fitness trackers: the Fitbit Surge and the Microsoft Band 2.

The wearables: At a glance

Microsoft Band 2

The Band 2

What we found: The Fitbit Surge and the Microsoft Band 2 cost roughly the same price, give or take a few cents, and track many of the same things (activity, sleep, heart rate and more).

What you’ll learn: These two trackers are pretty evenly matched, but if you want the benefit of smartwatch-esque features, you’d be better off going for the Microsoft Band 2.

 Fitbit SurgeMicrosoft Band 2
Price$249.95 from Fitbit$249.99 from Microsoft Store
Activity trackingYesYes
Sleep trackingYesYes
Heart rate monitorYesYes
GPSYesYes
Call/text notificationsYesYes
CompatibilityiOS, Android and WindowsWindows Phone 8.1 or later, Android 4.4 or later, and iPhone 5 or later running iOS 8.1.2 or later
Buy on Amazon
Buy Fitbit Surge
Buy Microsoft Band 2

The wearables: Up close and personal

The Surge

Tracking

Before you buy, decide which types of readings you want your device to be able to provide. Today’s trackers can offer details on various aspects of your day, including sleep quality and continuous heart rate.

The Fitbit Surge is a self-proclaimed “ultimate fitness super watch” and is the most expensive product in the Fitbit activity product line. The Surge features what athletes look for in a high-tech watch: GPS tracking, heart rate monitoring, sleep analysis and all-day activity tracking (steps, distance, calories, active minutes, etc.).

Similarly, the Microsoft Band 2 is a loaded fitness-tracking device. The Band 2 can track heart rate, calories burned, sleep quality and even specific activities like running and golfing. It also includes 11 different sensors for additional measurements (GPS, UV and a barometer, to name a few).

Appearance

Function is crucial, but so is form. Consider what each of these will look like on your wrist. Each is sold in three different sizes, but that’s about where the appearance similarities end.

The Fitbit Surge is designed more like a watch. Its thick band comes in black, blue or tangerine, and it has a touch-screen monochrome LCD display and backlight for low-light visibility.

The Microsoft Band 2 looks much more like a high-tech bracelet. Its sleek black design is accentuated by an AMOLED full-color curved display.

Battery life

Just like a smartphone or tablet, your new fitness assistant won’t maintain power unless you keep it charged.

The Fitbit Surge has a lithium polymer battery with a battery life of up to seven days and a GPS battery life of up to 10 hours. The battery takes one to two hours to recharge. The Microsoft Band 2’s lithium polymer battery can last for 48 hours of normal use, but using GPS could affect this duration. The battery can be fully charged in an hour and a half.

Extras

At one point, fitness wearables were only about fitness, but not anymore. Both of these devices do much more than count calories and track steps.

In addition to its standard abilities, the Fitbit Surge offers call/text notifications as well as the ability to control songs from a mobile playlist. The water-resistant Surge can wirelessly sync stats to tablets, computers and over 150 iOS, Android and Windows smartphones via Bluetooth 4.0.

The Microsoft Band 2, on the other hand, more closely positions itself toward the smartwatch end of the market. The device — which can be paired with a variety of iPhone, Android and Windows Phone models — provides email previews, calendar reminders, call alerts, text messages and social updates. Wearers can even send standard text replies, and Windows Phone 8.1 users can speak a reply by using Cortana (when their phone is within 30 feet).

And there’s still more to this water-resistant band. The Band 2 measures UV exposure and can alert you when it’s time to apply sunscreen. It’ll also keep you apprised of your latest Facebook Messenger updates and allow you to pay for your daily cup of joe at Starbucks via your wrist.

Price

With such similar price points, the cost of these two trackers likely won’t play much of a role if you’re deciding between the two. Check for deals on Amazon, as the online marketplace has been known to offer discounts on these types of devices.

Ready, set, buy!

Put these wearables side by side, and it’s clear the Microsoft Band 2 comes out on top. After all, you can wear it on a run, then bring it into Starbucks to pay for your post-workout caffeine boost.

If you’re looking for fitness tracking plus the benefits of a smartwatch, go for the Microsoft Band 2.

But if you’d rather leave the fanciest features to your smartphone, pick the Fitbit Surge. You’ll still get advanced activity tracking features from a trusted fitness brand.

For more fitness comparisons, see:

And for more activity tracker buying advice, check out:

Courtney Jespersen is a staff writer at NerdWallet, a personal finance website. Email: courtney@nerdwallet.com. Twitter: @courtneynerd.


Image via iStock.

 

Free Earbuds When You Buy a Fitbit

daily-deals-free-earbuds-fitbit-targetIf you’ve been needing an extra push to help you achieve your fitness goals, an activity tracker might be the right tool for you.

Target is offering a special deal to provide that extra bit of incentive: Now through Jan. 30, receive a free pair of Yurbud earbuds when you buy any Fitbit fitness tracker valued at $99.99 or higher.

In order to receive the promotion, add both the Fitbit and Yurbuds to your cart and the discount will be applied at checkout.

Check out our comparison of Fitbit models, to see which one is right for you.

Offer is valid until Jan. 30 at 11:59 p.m. PT.

In addition, spend $25 or more and receive free shipping.

Find this deal at Target.

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Homeowners’ Life Insurance Options

Buying a home usually means taking on one of the biggest financial obligations of your life. A homeowner’s life insurance policy can be essential financial protection, particularly when you’re obtaining a mortgage with a partner.

Homeowners with a mortgage spent an average of $12,639 on their mortgage payments (not including insurance) in 2014, according to the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics. That amounted to 13% of the $97,309 average pretax income among homeowners who had a mortgage. House payments take up a larger share of income for many first-time buyers and in many parts of the country.

Mortgages can become unaffordable if one partner dies. You wouldn’t want your family to have to move and find a cheaper home if you were no longer around.

Here’s how life insurance can help.

Term life insurance can cover your mortgage

Term life insurance promises to pay a set amount if you die while the policy is in effect. You choose the coverage amount and how many years the policy should last.

New homeowners can buy a term life insurance policy timed to match the duration of their mortgage. For example, if you have 20 years left on your mortgage, you could buy a 20-year term life policy. If you want the same policy to cover other obligations, like replacing your income if you die, you would buy a policy with a longer term and a higher amount.

[Life insurance quotes are available through NerdWallet’s Life Insurance Comparison Tool.]

Mortgage life insurance has limited benefit

An alternative to term life insurance is mortgage life insurance, which serves one purpose: It pays off your mortgage balance if you die. It pays the exact amount of the mortgage balance, and the payout goes directly to the lender, not your spouse or family.

Therefore, families are usually better off with a term life insurance policy. The policy amount can encompass more than just the mortgage balance, and your family members can use the payout for their most pressing financial need, whether it’s the mortgage, health care, college or another issue.

Mortgage life insurance might make sense if you need life insurance to cover a mortgage but you have a health issue that would prevent you from qualifying for term life coverage. Here’s more on mortgage life insurance vs. term life.

Permanent life insurance may be too much

A permanent life insurance policy lasts your entire life and builds cash value over time. It can be considerably more expensive than term life. If your family’s financial obligations are finite — like the years covering a mortgage or college tuition — term life insurance is suitable and will give you more bang for your buck.

NerdWallet’s life insurance comparison tool can help homeowners find the right coverage amount and compare rates.

Aubrey Cohen is a staff writer at NerdWallet, a personal finance website. Email: acohen@nerdwallet.com. Twitter: @aubreycohen.


Image via iStock.

Tips for Cutting Costs but Not Jobs

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There are many great aspects of being an entrepreneur and owning your own small business. Unfortunately the occasional need to layoff staff isn’t one of them. With a reported 70% of business costs being staffing related, many businesses first look to their employees when money gets tight. However, as a recent post by Minda Zetlin on Inc. highlighted, there are some ways that you can help reduce your business’ costs without having to lose any of your team.

One of their first cost-cutting tips is to sublet part of your office space. In addition to the monetary assistance that comes with having someone to split the rent with, there are other benefits of sharing space with the right company. Perhaps the business you bring in could be a potential partner or customer for your company in the future. Just like any roommate situation, you’ll want to take a hard look at who you’re subletting to and make sure it’s a good fit (even if you don’t end up collaborating directly).

So what do you do if you don’t have much room to sublet? Consider allowing some of your employees to work remotely. Often times this will be a welcomed change for them as they’ll be free of a daily commute but you’ll also have more room to lease out to another business. There are many free or inexpensive tools like Slack that small businesses can use to communicate with their team and stay on task even if they’re not in the same physical space. However you will want to be sure to bring your whole team together in person periodically. Additionally keep in mind that some employees will actually prefer to come into the office every day and so you shouldn’t force them to stay home.

An alternative plan for keeping your team employed without incurring the costs is to loan your employees out to a fellow business. Obviously you don’t want to turn over your assets to a competitor but perhaps you know another business that could use the extra help and skills that your employees provide that would be willing to take on a portion of your payroll. Once again you’ll want to ensure that your employees are comfortable with whatever arrangement you devise, but many will understand the predicament you’re in and appreciate your effort in ensuring their financial security. Additionally such an arrangement will make it easier to bring your team back full time once you have to money to do.

Lastly another way to minimize your costs is to negotiate with your vendors and suppliers. While there’s no guarantee they will be open to price changes, it is possible that they’ll be willing to reconsider your pricing in order to hold on to your business as a customer. They may have other conditions that go along with their discounted pricing but it’s definitely worth asking especially if it means you don’t have to lose any of your staff.

If your small business is experiencing some lean times you may feel like you’ll need to let go of some of your employees. Luckily with some creative problem solving, that might not be the case. By following these tips and thinking of other ways that make sense for your business to cut costs in other areas you can help ensure that you make it through the rough patches with your entire team on board.

The post Tips for Cutting Costs but Not Jobs appeared first on Dyer News.

4 Signs You’re Ready to Refinance Federal Student Loans

Federal student loan perks — such as deferment or forgiveness — can be crucial for some borrowers. But if you don’t need them, you might want to consider refinancing with a private company.

When you refinance your student loans, a private lender replaces your current loans with a new one at a lower interest rate, potentially saving you big bucks over time. Grads with good or excellent credit and a stable income have the best shot at refinancing.

Beyond those requirements, if you can check off these four boxes, you may be ready to refinance federal student loans.

✔︎ Your potential savings make refinancing worthwhile.

Borrowers whose federal loans have interest rates of 6.5% or higher have the most to gain from refinancing, since they’ll receive the largest interest rate reduction if they meet lenders’ requirements.

“The first thing [borrowers] need to consider is whether or not there is going to be a real, tangible benefit,” says Chad Pastorius, manager of strategic planning at the Rhode Island Student Loan Authority, a nonprofit student lender that offers refinancing.

Here’s an example of how it could work: Say you have a $30,000 federal loan at a 6.8% interest rate. You’ll pay $345.24 per month for 10 years and $11,428.92 in interest overall on the standard repayment plan. But two years into repayment, once you’ve developed excellent credit and solid income relative to your debt, you might qualify to refinance. If you do, your new lender will pay off your $25,508.40 federal loan balance and issue you a new eight-year private loan at a lower interest rate — for example, 4%.

Your new monthly payment will be $310.93, a savings of about $34 a month. You’ll also see a big difference in overall interest savings: You’d have $7,634.73 in interest left to pay on the 10-year loan, compared to $4,340.78 in total interest on your new eight-year loan. That means you’ll save $3,293.95 during the next eight years by refinancing.

✔︎ Your job won’t qualify you for student loan forgiveness.

The government offers certain benefits exclusive to federal loans. One of the most valuable is federal student loan forgiveness, a program which lets you get rid of your loans early if you meet specific criteria.

Public Service Loan Forgiveness, for instance, will dissolve your remaining federal loan balance if you work in the public sector for 10 years. Government employees, teachers, police officers and AmeriCorps volunteers qualify, among others. Teachers and Perkins loan borrowers can take advantage of additional programs that offer forgiveness after just five years.

Borrowers who refinance give up access to these programs. But that will concern you less if you work for a private company and wouldn’t be able to qualify for forgiveness. You can even refinance to a shorter repayment term — say, five or eight years — so you eliminate your loans faster and pay less interest overall.

✔︎ You’re able to to afford your loans without income-driven repayment.

The government offers several income-driven student loan repayment plans, which calculate your monthly payment as a percentage of your earnings. The newest, most generous plan, REPAYE, allows all federal direct loan borrowers to pay 10% or less of their salary every month toward loans — as little as $0 if they earn no income — and offers forgiveness after 20 years, or 25 for those with grad school loans.

REPAYE and other income-driven plans are best for borrowers who have a lot of debt compared to their earnings or who work seasonally and can’t predict how much they’ll make.

“Those programs can really provide borrowers with a lot of value if their financial circumstances were to change,” Pastorius says.

But if you have a steady income, and it’s high relative to your debt, you may not need an income-driven repayment plan. RISLA, for instance, welcomes refinancing customers who have debt loads that are less than half of their annual incomes, Pastorius says. In those cases, refinancing could save you thousands.

✔︎ You don’t plan to defer your subsidized loans.

It’s hard to predict the future, but if there’s a good chance you’ll want an advanced degree, you may want to keep your loans federal — especially if they’re subsidized.

The government pays the interest on subsidized loans when they’re in deferment, meaning a borrower has temporarily postponed payments. You can apply for deferment if you go back to school full time, are between jobs or have other qualifying circumstances.

It’s worth doing the calculation, though, Pastorius says. A much lower interest rate on a refinanced loan could still save you more money over time, even if you’re paying the interest on your refinanced loan while you’re in school.

If you’ve already gone to grad school, you have no plans to apply or you only have unsubsidized loans, giving up interest-free deferment doesn’t have to keep you from refinancing.

When you’re ready to refinance

NerdWallet has partnered with the marketplace Credible, which lets you compare offers from up to eight refinancing lenders at a time. Borrowers can enter initial loan information below to see how much they could save, then fill out a full application on Credible’s website to view real offers from lenders.

Refinancing companies outside Credible’s marketplace, including SoFi, Earnest and Darien Rowayton Bank, may also be worth considering. Shopping around for a refinanced loan — all within a 30-day period, so it doesn’t negatively affect your credit — can help you decide if refinancing is worth it for you, once you know you won’t use the benefits federal loans provide.

Brianna McGurran is a staff writer at NerdWallet. Email: bmcgurran@nerdwallet.com. Twitter: @briannamcscribe.